Vintage Tunina: Story of a vertical tasting of a wine that is making history

 The fist harvest of the grapes that give Vintage Tunina dates back to 1975, one year before I was born, even though some initial experiments had already been made a couple of years prior to that date.

On the 15th of December 2017, in the occasion of the 40th anniversary of the first harvest, Jermann Wineries hosted a grand event: a vertical tasting of Tunina – as the Jermanns and enthusiasts call the wine in friendly terms – to celebrate their flagship wine.

Following ones instinct one would use the term purebred, though it wouldn’t be totally correct because Tunina is actually a blend of Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia Istriana and Picolit (and other little secrets revealed during the tasting and that I will keep in my little private “black box”).

What is indeed pure is the terroir of this wine, the sophisticated essence and the kaleidoscopic facets of the Friulian whites, the zenith expression of “silkiness and savoriness” that springs from the glass.

The day of festive cheer and study involved 12 experts, including the flamboyant Silvio Jermann himself accompanied by his son Michele, and the winery director Edi Clementin, who compared their opinions on 9 vintages of Tunina and 1 extra wine.

The bottles were served blind and the convened had a good time trying to find out the odd-one-out in the random order of vintages (2002-1983-2015-1990-2005 Tocai Friulano Doro Princic, the-odd-one-out-2015 heritage edition- 1997-2010-2006-2016 which had just been bottled), as well as lining the series in the correct order. The tasters were guided by their senses, the discussion was very lively and definitely interesting. The debate was open creating a sense of cultural enrichment and depth. It was truly exiting to sit at that interesting table of great names of the wine press and critic, indulging together in understanding the wine.

The value of the cru, of that little plot of land where Tunina thrives, can be traced back in time in the mineral whiffs of gunpowder (which is also the strength of the Chardonnay and the Friuli!) and wonderful spicy hints that frame the fresh, balsamic essences and iodine overtones, and in the more recent vintages notes that are floral and fruity.

At the end of the tasting experience Michelin-starred chef Antonia Klugmann delighted the guests with dishes that were original and very stimulating for both the sight and the palate; the grand finale was once again the wine, the Picolit nero and Picolit of the house which concluded the outstanding experience.

 

Wines resemble their winemakers, as is the case of Silvio Jermann (with his children Michele and Silvia), who for the entire day extruded passion, enthusiasm, knowledge and friendly hospitality.  The majestic symphony created by Tunina on the 15th of December once again reminds us all how wine is the instrument the winemaker uses to play the musical part offered by the nature of the soil, the climate and the surrounding environment.

Luigi Veronelli defined this wine as the “Pietro Mennea of Italian wines”, and it is inspired by continual change and the evolution one senses taking in the views of the Collio hills beyond the statue of Saint Urban, protector of wine-growers; the wine-growing region that is both the border and the trait d’union between Italy and Slovenia. It is only natural to think back at what Mario Soldati wrote about borders: from afar they are limits and obstacles but when you are standing there of the border it becomes the threshold of continuity and the infinite.

In defiance of those who simplistically and obliviously believe that white wines cannot age, the vertical tasting of Tunina proved that great whites do age well and can develop into authentic giants  Being the same age as this wine and being part of this extraordinary experience made me feel proud, happy, and honored to be able to enjoy one of the marvels humans are capable of creating from bare Mother Earth.

Note

About 4000 bottles of the 2015 vintage of Vintage Tunina were produced following the traditional method of aging the wine in cement vats.

 

Link to the article

https://www.bibenda.it/news_bibenda_singola.php?id=4752